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Making made to measure trousers

I trotted off the title "Made to measure trousers" more in hope than anything else!

I'm spending a couple of days pattern drafting some trousers for myself in the hope of a good fit. I have a bit of trouble with trousers since I've got older and hope this will solve some problems.

To pattern draft, you first of all need a good book like this one:

It's the go-to for most beginners I believe and is certainly comprehensive, but a little dated in it's choice of shapes; a bit 1970's.

I went on a pattern cutting course with Lee Bojan, who I know still teaches pattern cutting at all levels. Well, he did before lockdown and I'm sure will continue as soon as possible. I can give you contact details if you're interested.

I spent a couple of days with him getting the basics and making a fitted bodice block; enough to give me the confidence to try a pattern block for trousers without help. I chose a commercial pattern block as a basis and then used the diagrams and text together with my own measurements, to draw a front and back pair legs. I will need to add a waistband and side/back opening, but I'm jumping ahead a bit.

Having drawn the pattern, I need to trace onto paper and cut out a toile - a practice garment that can be fitted to the body, and cut about if necessary. Come back in a couple of days to see how it goes!

In essence, you start by measuring your body accurately. Each pattern layout gives you a list of which measurements you need. You then write these on paper for reference or scribble in the book (I really find it's helpful to photocopy the relevant pages so I can do calculations and scribbling without ruining my book).

Starting at 0, which is a mark you make on the graph paper for the start, you then follow the instructions to plot various other marks using your measurements as a guide. So for example, the first line you draw may be from 0 to 1 and might be your waist meaurement. Line 1 to 2 may be your leg length and so on until the pattern shape is drawn. I know that simplifies things a bit as some of the lines involve more calculation, but that's the general idea.

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